A complete guide to using ceramides in your skincare routine
Why ceramides are essential for a strong, healthy skin barrier, lasting hydration and improved resilience
When it comes to moisturising, ceramides are frequently name-checked by dermatologists. But what do you really know about this skincare staple?
Whereas a ‘sexy’ active (such as retinol) enjoys a lot of fanfare, there has been little focus on ceramide education. But given these good fats are naturally produced by our bodies and make up around 50% of our skin barrier (the outermost layer of skin), it's worth getting to grips with their benefits when applied via a cream or serum.
What are ceramides?
Ceramides are a family of waxy lipids or fatty molecules, produced by the skin that keep the skin barrier strong and healthy. “Ceramides are an essential component of your skin's outermost layer,” says Elizabeth Arden's consulting dermatologist, Dr Dendy Engelman.
Usually, the word ‘ceramide’ will appear on a product's ingredient list (ceramide AP, EOP, NG, NP or NS), but occasionally you'll see phytosphingosine and sphingosine, which are ‘ceramide precursors’ and encourage the skin to produce its own ceramides.
What do ceramides do for your skin?
Ceramides protect your skin barrierAs one of the biggest organs in the body, our skin acts as a filter against external bacteria, toxins and chemicals. If you picture your skin barrier as a brick wall, the skin cells are the bricks and the ceramides are the mortar or glue in between that holds everything together. “Ceramides wrap around the skin cell to create structural support and protect it,” says Michael Hume, MD at Nip+Fab.
It's also worth remembering that while your body naturally produces ceramides, these diminish over time for a number of reasons. “Seasonal changes with cold or hot temperatures can reduce the ceramides in your skin," says A-list facialist and skincare expert, Sarah Chapman. “They can also decrease after a change of diet or from the overuse of soaps or exfoliants,” she notes.
When your skin's ceramide levels are low, the skin barrier is weakened and moisture starts to escape through minuscule cracks, causing redness, irritation and dehydration. “Low levels of ceramides result in dehydrated, irritated skin and can even lead to more serious skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis,” Sarah says.
So it’s important to keep them topped up. "Ceramides help with moisture retention," she notes because, by acting like ‘mortar’, they seal water in and keep irritants out. Sara Waterman, senior aesthetician at Young LDN, agrees, "The human body is made up of approximately 70% water, but on the skin's surface this can be as low as 10-30%. Ceramides help to keep the skin hydrated on all levels. By creating a barrier, ceramides keep the water in and protect against environmental damage.”
A strong barrier also makes skin more resilient when using potent actives. “It means that your skin will tolerate retinol, azelaic acid and vitamin C better when they are topically applied,” Michael adds.
For this reason, some products even blend retinol and ceramides together in one serum to counter any gnarly side effects such as dry skin, flaking and irritation.
“The correct levels of ceramides will result in smoother, softer skin that feels instantly more comfortable and refreshed,” Sarah explains. And they can help to prevent the appearance of fine lines, too. “Ceramides are a ‘powerhouse’ for helping to keep skin dewy, plump and soothed,” she adds.
How should you use ceramides?
“Ceramides can be found in various products such as serums and creams as well as cleansers that help to protect the delicate natural barrier,” says Sara.
Their cushioning action means that “they can be combined with other ingredients, including peptides, antioxidants, niacinamide and retinol to name but a few," Sara adds. "They are also excellent to use after AHA/BHA exfoliation to replenish the moisture levels, which can be depleted with overuse.”
Which is better: hyaluronic acid or ceramides?
Rather than being either/or, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are actually great bedfellows and can be used together. “Hyaluronic acid binds to water in the skin and holds it there, while ceramides will help to lock in and retain that moisture in skin cells,” says Michael, who advocates a morning routine of vitamin C serum, followed by both hyaluronic acid and ceramide serums, topped with an SPF. Better still, look for a serum that combines hyaluronic acid and ceramides for added ease.
Which skin types suit ceramides?
“Every skin type, when it’s healthy, will be producing ceramides as they are part of a healthy hydration balance," Sara notes. "However dehydrated, stressed or ageing skin that is no longer producing an adequate supply of ceramides will greatly benefit from skincare that includes them.”
Sarah also believes that ceramides are key for sensitive skin. “A compromised skin barrier can lead to flare-ups in those who already suffer with conditions such as eczema," she says. "Increasing the number of ceramides will not only help to heal, comfort and restore the skin after these reactions, but bolster its future resilience.”
Do ceramides clog pores?
No, ceramides on their own won’t clog pores, but be mindful of the formulas you choose for your skin type. “Skin, which is prone to acne and congestion, will benefit from a lighter oil-free ceramide serum rather than a thicker cream that is too rich,” explains Sara.
