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“Adorned in Basra pearls, she sits with the saddle as her throne and defiance in her eyes.”
The miniature painting of Chand Bibi riding horseback, a bird poised on her right hand, captures both authority and grace. It is this moment of sovereign splendour that Sanjay Gupta Hyderabad reimagines in his Deccan Deco Collection.
In the old quarters of Hyderabad, where kundan jewellery heirlooms are passed down in velvet-lined boxes, the Tibarumals have been woven into the city’s cultural fabric since 1925. They subsequently rose to become the preferred jeweller of the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Pasha. The house built its reputation on handpicked gemstones and meticulous craftsmanship, eventually earning the patronage of African nobility and international collectors alike.
Over decades, the atelier evolved into a sanctuary for heirloom-making. Each piece remains bespoke; each emerald, carefully chosen. In the lattice of a magri mala or the curve of a mango haram lies a continuity, where memory meets meticulous design. Born into the Tibarumal family, Sanjay Gupta knew exactly what made a jewel sing. Today, that legacy extends to the next generation, with Sanjay’s son, Shivek Gupta, stepping into the fold, raised among rare stones and rarer stories.
The brand’s Deccan Deco Collection reflects this lineage while reframing it through powerful female icons. Alongside Chand Bibi appears Veena Dhanammal, the nearly-blind 19th-century Carnatic musician, who is envisioned in layered pearls offset by statement emerald necklaces, drop earrings, and an emerald ring.
On the brand’s Instagram page, the landlocked city of Hyderabad, known as the ‘City of Pearls’, recurs as a motif. Bridal jewellery holds a special place in their collections, where Basra malas meet rose-cut diamonds, and archival references are styled with contemporary silhouettes. Traditional forms such as the baajubandh, once worn as a talisman to guard against the darkness, re-emerge featuring a Mozambique ruby heart framed in diamonds and gold.
Also seen in the collection are structured silver chains punctuated with bezel-set emeralds. An architectural diamond necklace with oversized links supports an ornate pendant centred on a Columbian cabochon emerald. It also features a Mozambique ruby ring, haloed in diamonds.
As Shivek takes the helm, the jewellery mason enters a considered new chapter. His approach leans subtly avant-garde yet remains anchored in discipline. The brand says he brings with him “a quiet revolution”—one where the past is renewed in modern silhouettes in the hands of Sanjay Gupta Hyderabad.
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